From tropical forests to dry sagebrush deserts, the Oregon desert has a rich history spanning over 50 million years, with transformations as extreme as they are diverse. Hard to believe, but 50 million years ago, lush evergreen tropical forests thrived here, with ancestors of walnuts, apples, birches, and bananas growing amongst ferns, lichens, and mosses. Imagine a landscape dominated by active volcanoes, reminiscent of modern-day Panama’s tropical environment. These volcanoes, in their eruptions, created colossal flows of magma called lahars, shaping the land and preserving remnants of ancient tropical species visible in today's rocks. Additionally, tectonic forces gave rise to the towering cliffs known as the Palisades in what we call the Clarno formations.

While exploring the Spring Basin Wilderness near the John Day Fossil Beds in Central Oregon, I found numerous fossils from these ancient forests, offering a glimpse into a distant past. Fast forward 10 million years (37 million years ago), and the climate cooled, transitioning to a period where tropical species gave way to deciduous trees and sparse grasslands. Another 10 million years later (25 million years ago), grasslands became the dominant landscape as tropical species faded into extinction.

Around 17 million years ago, tectonic forces reshaped the landscape, pushing a wave of molten basalt, three miles high, across vast areas of Washington, Oregon, and Idaho, leaving behind numerous fossils from another epoch. Fifteen million years ago, the ancestors of elephants crossed the Bering Sea ice bridge into North America, followed by early species of horses around eight million years ago. Then, about 3.5 million years ago, when the land bridge in Panama formed, an ecological exchange of flora and fauna occurred between North and South American continents, sparking a biodiversity explosion.

Fast forward to 10,000 years ago, marking the end of the last ice age, everything changed. As temperatures rose, the landscape transformed into the familiar terrain we see today. The Oregon desert's journey through time is not just a story of geological shifts but also a testament to the resilience and adaptability of life on Earth.

As I explored this landscape, the vastness of geologic time washed over me, instilling a deep appreciation for the present moment and the incredible diversity of life on Earth. After years of missed opportunities, I finally had the chance to explore and study the flora of the Oregon desert, and it exceeded all expectations.

Hiking up a ravine in the Spring Basin Wilderness, I encountered so many unique species! From Pediocactus nigrispinus to Eriogonum compositum and the vibrant Castilleja xanthotricha, each plant seemed to tell a story of resilience in this desert climate.

Spring Basin Wilderness, April 2024

Painted Hills, OR - April 2024

Catherine Creek Arch - April 2024