Painted Hills, OR - April 2024
Not far from my campsite in the Spring Basin Wilderness, I took an hour-long drive to the iconic Painted Hills, and it absolutely lived up to its reputation. After studying the geological history of the Oregon desert at the John Day Fossil Beds, my appreciation for this area reached new heights, offering a deepened perspective on the area.
Fifty million years ago, when the climate was warmer and more tropical, these valleys were thriving with water: lakes, ponds, rivers, and other wetlands (it's hard to imagine looking at these pictures). As these water bodies dried up due to the warming climate, they left behind chemical deposits like manganese, sodium, and iron, which formed the distinct streaks on the hills, creating their "painted" appearance. Over eons, erosion blended these colors into breathtaking shades of grey, lavender, red, pink, tan, and yellow.
What amazed me the most was the rich diversity of plant life in this area. While I observed similarities with the bunch grasses and sage scrub communities in Spring Basin Wilderness, the Painted Hills had its own unique array of plant species. The much taller Western junipers provided much-needed shade and fostered microclimates for other plants to grow. I was particularly awed by the resilience of Lewisia rediviva, clinging to the hillsides in iron-rich soils with minimal moisture.
During my hike, I started flipping over rocks in search of snakes and scorpions and I encountered a surprising and spiny guest: Opunita fragilis. Though unexpected and slightly painful at first, it was a exciting find! (after I removed its spines from my shoe haha). The situation made me break out into tears of laughter.
Reflecting on the millions of years of geological and ecological history here gave me a deep perspective and appreciation for this landscape. We're truly just a speck on a speck on a speck on this planet. Our unique position and insignificance in the grand scheme of things are humbling reminders for us all. It's easy to get caught up in the mundanity and stresses of our lives, but being here gave me a good reset and an opportunity to fully embrace the beauty of spring.
Red - Iron red pareosols formed from ancient standing ponds/lakes. Indicating a warmer, tropical environment.
Yellow + Tan - Indicate a dry period/area where moisture from lakes did not reach.
Black spots - Manganese deposits from ancient plant that processed manganese from the soil.
Eroding iron rich hill with western juniper in foreground
Opuntia fragilis
Opuntia fragilis
Cleomella platycarpa
Cleomella platycarpa
Nothocalais troximoides
Lomatium macrocarpum
Rivers, nature’s sculptures
Eriogonum sp. hard to tell without flowers
Lewisia rediviva
Sedum lanceolatum or S. stenopetalum. Not exactly sure…
Opuntia fragilis
Love this habitat!
